Last Day in Rome

This morning at 8:00 AM, I met Father Mark Haydu at the Porta Sant' Anna of the Vatican. He's the director of the Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums, whom I met just a few weeks ago. He's the one whowas kind enough to arrange the wonderful "Patrons' Tour" for me this morning, and it was even more impressive that he was the guide, and I was the audience of one. Altogether he gave me about two hours of his time, out of a very busy schedule. His worldwide responsibility is to try to gather support, by developing local groups of patrons, to finance the preservation and restoration of great works of our artistic and faith heritage at the Vatican Museums. The Calfornia Chapter has been particjularly active and generous for many years.

First we went to the Sistine Chapel, where we were virtually alone. He described something of the recent cleaning and restoration work, but concentrated more on the person and history of Michelangelo, and the revolutionary creativity and dynamism, interwoven with symbolism, manifested in his work. It's hard for us today to appreciated how jarring he imagery was on his contemporaries because we are so used to it, perhaps much like Beethoven in the music world.

Here's a promotional video of Fr. Mark giving a little taste of the tour.



Then, after a chat over coffee in his office, he gave me a private tour of of the recent Santa Rosa Necropolis excavations. this video is a lot more informative than the last one, and gives a really good description of the excavations.



I was able to video Fr. Mark's tour, which is a lot more extensive. I hope I'll have an edited version fairly soon to show. After this, I spent a couple of hours by myself wandering the Museums. Unfortunately, the tour of the tomb of St. Peter was not available. Another time, I guess. I'm also disappointed that the newly discovered fresco portrait of St. Paul at the virtually unknown Catacomb of St. Thecla is in the process of stabilization and can't even be opened for a private tour. Another time for that one too. (Wanna come? I'll start a list.)

So, I had a nice "last meal" in a sort of rustic trattoria somehwere along the Viale Giulio Caesare, and came back to the hotel for a nap. Took a last walk around the area, and had a little dish of gelato, then came back to write this. Now it's time for bed. Got a long way to go tomorrow.

Rome Days Two and Three

Yesterday (Saturday) was pretty chilly, cloudy, and off-and-on rainy. Kind of miserable, actually. But that didn't stop your intrepid explorer of early Christian life. Where better than to discover life and in a cemetery? Yes, I finally made it to a couple of catacombs: Priscilla and St. Callistus. They are on opposite sides of the city, so it meant some fancy connections on the subway and bus system. Successfully done.

The Catacombs of Priscilla are on the Via Salaria, somewhat northeast of the historical center of Rome; in ancient times outside the walls, but now very much in the city. They are now part of a Benedictine convent, and tours are offered under their auspices. No photos, but there is a brief photo tour at their website, and a search for images on Google will produce a lot more.

Priscilla is not the name of a saint, but was probably the wealthy Christian landowner on whose property these catacombs were dug. Catacombs were burial places, not secret hiding places. The rich and powerful pagans often had their tombs above ground -- marble monuments and such. But it was lot cheaper to dig tombs underground, and the volcanic tuff rock is easily carved out and provided the ideal medium.

While most of the catacomb walls are lined with simple tombs (loculae, Latin for "little places"), some more elaborate areas boast the earliest know Christian art, usually in the form of frescoes, i.e., painting on plaster. There are many images of Christ as Good Shepherd, and he is usually depicted as a youth without a beard in Roman garb, a far cry from the sentimentalized images we are familiar with.

In the afternoon, I took the bus to the other side of the city, to the Appian Way and the Catacombs of St. Callistus, one of the most developed catacombs as a tourist attraction. Its artwork seemed a bit more "restored" (or "touched up") than Priscilla's, but I don't know if that's the case or not.

The early Christian artwork in the catacombs tell us a lot about their life, death, and faith. One interesting note: the size of the tombs reveals the size of the people. Men were just over 5-feet tall and women just under. Thus Romans and Greeks were actually quite a bit smaller than the people of today, and I've heard that the "barbarians" of northern and eastern Europe (especially the Huns) were fearsome because they were taller.

Yesterday evening, after a bit of rest and a panino (sandwich), I took the 64 bus to a stop just south of the Pantheon, and nostalgically wandered around. I had forgotten just how massive the Pantheon is. I finished my wandering at the Piazza Navona, and enjoyed a tartufo -- as good as ever, and only 5-euros to go.

Today, I slept in a little bit, and went to 8 AM Mass at the church around the corner from the hotel. I described the liturgy in an email to fellow members of the LA Archdiocesan Liturgical Commission as follows:

For better or worse, "went to Mass" seems the most accurate description of the experience: neither hot nor cold, neither wonderful nor awful. Small amount of singing was led by the lector/server/cantor. Priest seemed attentive and communicative, but routine. Sound system surprisingly effective in a reverberant space. Small assembly, mostly locals with a few obvious tourists, scattered around church. Locals sang well and enthusiastically with minimal leadership. Interesting that there was little uniformity about standing or kneeling during the Eucharistic Prayer and the Communion, even among the locals. Priest ate all the bread consecrated at the Mass (i.e., one small "large" host, broken in half) and drank all the consecrated wine. All Communion for the people was from the tabernacle; hosts small, thin, and white. Majority, even locals and elderly, received Communion in the hand. Priest seemed about my age, and seemed to reflect a lifetime of "saying Mass" rather than "presiding at the celebration of the liturgy,"

Ah well . . .

Then, after breakfast, I took the subway (Linea A) to St. Peter's, and got to the square just in time to see the Holy Father appear at his window for the noontime Angelus. He gave a ten-minute talk in Italian on World Mission Sunday, and greetings in a lot of languages, including English, before praying the Angelus. I think I got a pretty good video, with the zoom at maximum 10x -- haven't had time to review it. In some ways this is better than the Wednesday audience; not as long and much less hassle.

I took the 64 bus to Piazza Venezia and had a good meal at the Ristorante Abruzzi, and then wandered around the Casa Santa Maria, Gregorian University, Trevi Fountain and Piazza di Spagna before heading back to the hotel to rest a little and type up this report.

Now you're up to date. Tomorrow, the Vatican Museums, and Tuesday -- home.

Rome, Day One

Sorry I didn't have a lot of blogging opportunity or initiative between the last post in Ravenna and today. Ravenna, day two, was rainy, but that didn't stoop me from spending good quality time at the Basilica of San Apollinare in Classe, which is a 5-km, 15-minute bus ride from the center of the town. More great mosaics in an impressive building. So much has happened since then, however, that I'll have to wait until I can review the pictures for a more detailed commentary.

Yesterday, Thursday, was travel to Rome day. I was hoping to write on the train, but it was so crowded and uncomfortable -- almost like an airplane -- that it was impossible not only to open up the computer but also to put two thoughts together rationally. I was pretty exhausted when I got to the "Yes Hotel," (nifty name) which is brand-newly refurbished with high tech amenities, including availab;e 125-volt power and an Ameican-style outlet. They must understand that today's travelers are into gadgets that need recharging, because the room is loaded with electrical outlets. And it's only a block from the Stazione Termini (Central Train Station), which also serves as the subway and bus hub of the city.

Today I was planning to visit the catacombs and ended up spending almost the whole day in Ostia Antica instead. Ostia was the ancient port city of Rome, and the excavations and partial reconstructions are among the best anywhere. I'm not going to Pompei or Herculaneum, which I imagine can be more impressive because of the way volcanic ash or mud preserved them. But those were resort towns for the rich and famous, and do not represent the great diversity of life in a real-world city. Ostia does. A little imagination could put one in the center of the bustling community life there. Another advantage is that so few people seem to know about it -- even I had no idea it was this extensive and well maintained -- that it's not overrun with tourists.

Subway/train connections are great, and onthe way back I visited St. Paul's Outside the Walls, The newly excavated tomb of St. Paul is barely visible through a glass opening in the shrine beneath the main altar. There is also a new door that was made specially for the Year of St. Paul, which recently concluded, with some striking relief sculptures.

It's now about 7:30 pm, and I'm kind of hungry and tired, so I think I'll get something to eat and go to bed. Rain is predicted for tomorrow, so I'm not sure what I'll do.

Ravenna, Day One

This is the evening of my first full day in Ravenna. I decided quite early on today that I would not take many videos, unless there was some kind of "action" involved. "Panorama" shots in video can be better done with a single photo. So, I have five video files and 329 photos. Maybe I can organize them on the train to Rome, and perhaps post some before I get back to GSBH. (For now, if you want pictures and info, I suggest searching for these places in Google or Wikipedia. It's worth the effort.)

So, what happened today. For one thing, the day was bright, beautiful, and neither too hot nor too cool. Thank you, Lord.

After a small but nice breakfast at the Hotel Argentario, I started walking north on the Via di Roma. Half a block from the hotel are the ruins of the "So-Called Palace of Theodoric." "So-Called" means they probably aren't. That's a long story for another time. I walked around, soaked in the history, took some pictures, and went on.

Next door is the Basilica of St. Apollinare Nuovo (I'm still less than a block from my hotel!), which was not yet open. Later.

I walked a few more blocks up (north) on Via di Roma (yes, you go south on this road far enough and you'll end up in Rome; at least that's the way it used to be), and came to the Church of the Holy Spirit, which at one time was the Arian Cathedral, and now is used as an Orthodox Church (I think), and more impotantly, the Arian Baptistery, with some fantactic mosaics.

From there I made my way to the complex of the Basilica of San Vitale, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, and the National Museum. The San Vitale was magnificent, and I spent lots of time and took a million pictures (well, not quite). (It seemed to me that the "standard" pictures you see in books or on the internet do not give context. A lot of those "professional" pictures are better than mine. But I think mine also give context.) The Mausolem of Gallia Placidia was poorly lighted and undergoing restoration -- my pix were not so good, and some really good stuff was covered up. The National Museum was, uhm, pretty "ho-hum."

Then I walked to the Orthodox Christian (as distinct from Arian) Baptistery, called "Neonian," which is attached to the present-day Cathedral. The Baptistery was open, the Cathedral was not.) More very ancient mosaics, and the time to contemplate them. (I'm going to have to write more sometime about the distinction between these two baptistries -- Arian and Neonian -- it's fascinating.)

A bit more wandering took me to the tomb of Dante. The poor guy was exiled from his native Florence to here because the Florentine elite didn't like him putting them all in hell in his "Divine Comedy." It seems they appreciated him here, probably because the Ravennese felt the same way he did.

By now it's mid-afternoon, and I decided to take in the Basilica of St. Apollonare Nouvo, about a hundred feet from my hotel. Breathtaking is the only word I can use -- as were San Vitale and Galla Placidia. Another million or so pictures, and the promise of more commentary to come.

Late afternoon. Nap at the hotel. Then a walk around the part of Ravenna on the other side of the train station and the innermost part of the port (remember it is a port city on the Adriatic coast) and the fifteenth-century fortress called the Rocca Brancaleone. Finally found a nice spot for dinner. Restaurants are fewer than I would have thought. And then back to my room to write this for you.

I'm glad and grateful that I decide to spend two full days here; one is definitely not enough.

Tomorrow the only major things left are the Mausoleum of Theodoric, which I past on my walk this evening, and the Basilica of St. Apollinare in Classe, which is a 5-km bus ride. God willing, it will be a good day with a relaxing finish.

Blessings and peace . . .

From Venice to Ravenna

Reflections on Venice and St. Mark's in particular

For several years I have actively wondered what the great Hagia Sophia looked like in its glory days as the greatest church of all Christianity. There are some books that reconstuct the liturgy. It is clear, for example, that there wasn't an opaque iconostasis, but there was something of a low wall and arched colonnade dividing the sanctuary from the nave. There was also a marked processional pathway between the sanctuary and the ambo, from which the scriptures were proclaimed in the middle of the assembly. There was also a bishop's throne against the back wall of the apse, and surrounded by terraced rows of seats for the presbyters. The ceremonial, involving processions, singing, prayers, various rites, etc., can be pieced together from contemporary documents. There were no seats for the assembly, except perhaps for the infirm and the elderly, which to my mind probably meant considerable mobility during the lengthy liturgies. Men and women were segregated -- men on the main floor and women inthe galleries, and there was a special gallery for the emperor and empress and their court.

The few surviving mosaics are tantalizing, but even they are not the early originals -- they date more or less from the 10th to the 14th centuries. After the fall of Constantinople to Mehmet II in 1453, the Turks immediately converted Hagia Sophia to a mosque, but actually preserved many of the mosaics by plastering over them rather than demolishing them. However, Hagia Sophia suffered terrible tragedies earlier in its history. The first was the iconoclastic dominance in the 7th and 8th centuries, which methodically and meticulously, as well as ruthlessly, destroyed all artwork representing Christ, Mary, and the saints, replacing them with simple crosses and geometric designs (as one sees in the apse of Hagia Irene. Nothing survived the ruthlessness of this movement. (Exceptions are in Milan, which I saw a few days ago, and Ravenna, where I am traveling to as I write this. In addition, there is a fragmentary 5th century mosaic of the annunciation in the Archaeological Museum of Istanbul, and a well preserved icon of the Virgin at St. Catherine's Monastery at Mt. Sinai, which I saw at the exhibit at the Getty a few years ago.) When Orthodoxy prevailed after the second council of Nicea, iconic art, including mosaics, again flourished. These are the examples we see today, at Hagia Sophia and many other places, but they are not the originals.

The next catastrophe was the fourth crusade, 1204, in which Catholic forces invaded and occupied Constantinople. They greedily and ruthlessly looted the treasures of the great churches, especially Hagia Sophia and the Twelve Apostles. The latter church, since the time of Justianian, had housed the tomb of Constantine, as well as tombs or relics of the apostles, and various objects that were held to be relics of the life and passion of Christ. These found there way to various shrines in Europe, and many to the treasury of St. Mark's in Venice, which I visited on Saturday.

The church second in importance to Hagia Sophia in Constantinople was the Twelve Apostles, which was leveled after the Turkish conquest in 1453 in order to build the Fatih Mosque. (Those who were on the first ECW Pilgrimage in 2006 may remember stopping there, mainly to view some foundation stones of the original building which some archeologists speculate were part of the original church. The importance I placed on this site puzzled many Pilgrims as well as Aydin our guide. Now, armed with a little more knowledge, I hope to revisit this site in 2010.)

Why this long and very generalized historical ramblings as prelude to reflecting on St. Mark's? First, in attending two Masses there yesterday, there were moments when I had the distinct feeling that I was in Hagia Sophia. Both the overall design and many archectural elements evoked the "feel" of Hagia Sophia. And the profusion of gold-background mosaics covering nearly every square inch (centimeter, I guess I should say) of the arches, domes, walls and bays, recall the splendor of what Hagia Sophia must have been like.

St. Mark's was originally built in the 800's, and was modeled after the Twelve Apostles, which has few surviving indications of what it looked like. Experts are quick to point out the western elements that were changed from the Byzantine style, but even when I mentally adjust for them, the Byzantine character of the building and its decoration comes through strikingly clear. I suspect the dimensions are similar to the Twelve Apostles, so one can get a good idea of the "feel" of that church as well.

A note on the domes. The Byzantine domes are definitely "flatter" than one seen at St Mark's, which are taller and almost "egg-shaped." They are certainly the precursors to the taller domes one sees on St. Peter's and many later western churches (as well as the US Capitol), and I wonder if they are also a strage in the development of the "onion-dome" that characterizes many central and easten European churches.

I was saddened to see the state of the treasury. The pitifully few remnants of the glory days of Constantinople looted from the Hagia Sophia are indifferently lumped together in dusty display cases, and the relics (often substantial pieces of bone in old reliquaries, but including several good sized pieces of the True Cross) are crowded on dusty glass shelves in a small room. (At least Louis IX built the magnificent Sainte-Chapelle in Paris to house the looted relics that came his way.) Everything is labeled in both Italian and English, which was helpful. I couldn't even try to sneak a few pictures because I left my camera in the hotel room because of the rain. There are photos of many of these things on the internet, and I hope to comment further. (IMHO Venice ought to "do the right thing" and return these relics and artifacts to the Orthodox Patriarch, like Pope John Paul II in 2004 returned the relics of St. John Chrysostom and St. Gregory Nazianzen, which were also part of the 1204 heist. They are beautifully displayed and venerated at the patriarchal church of St. George in Istanbul.)

Yesterday was beautiful, sunny and clear day. (Today it's cloudy again, and threatening rain. As the train was leaving Venice's Santa Lucia Station, I could see dark clouds and some lightning in the direction of St. Mark's.) I took the elevator to the top of the campanile (bell tower) in St. Mark's Square. The view was fantastic, and I could get a great view of the city in all directions -- evn the alps in the distance. Looking down at the roof confirmed my impression of the essential Byzantine character of the building itself. I think that spending some time talking about these things, with pictures, will help future Pilgrims understand some of the background of what they will see and experience on the Pilgrimage.

In the afternoon I also walked to the Rialto Bridge, and soaked in some of the "feel" for the city itself. And now I'm preparing for another "taste" of the early Byzantine world in the mosaics and churches/monuments of Ravenna.

These are some preliminary ramblings, written on the train to Ravenna. . . .

Now I've arrived in Ravenna, and checked into the Hotel Argentario. The city is so much more relaxed and spacious than Venice, which I began to find terribly oppressive. It's cloudy and off and on rainy, but fortunately I didn't get caught in it. The hotel, a short walk from the train station is roomy and accommodating, at 1/3 the cost of the one in Venice. Everything in this city -- at least the ancient stuff -- seems to be a relatively short walk. This afternoon and evening, though, I'm going to relax. There's a market and a department store a block or so from the hotel, and I may do a little shopping. I still need an umbrella.

Sunday in Venice

Bright, sunny, not-too-warm Venice redeemed itself today, after a miserably wet and soggy Saturday. I spent quality time in St. Mark's by attending two Masses. The guards were tolerant of picture-takers after the Masses, and I got some great impressions of the church in action. To really appreciate a church you have to experience it as a place of worship, not a museum. Will reflect on it more, but not tonight -- am tired and need a good night's sleep. Train to Ravenna tomorrow.

First night in Venezia

Greetings from Venezia! After a brief but spectacular lightning/thunder/downpour storm in Milano, I successfully boarded the train to Venice about midday today. It was not one of the high speed ones, but a fast enough express – but very crowded. Then I found my way to the public boat (vaporetto) dock, and boarded #1 (also very crowded) , which, 50-minutes and fifteen stops down the Grand Canal later (I counted them on the map), dropped me off at San Marco. The Hotel Firenze is tiny -- really tinhy -- but kind of elegant in a miniature old style way, and only one short block from the vaporetto dock, and one short block from the Piazza di San Marco. I was (and am) pretty tired, so I walked around aimlessly a bit, had some gelato and then dinner (the same as I had in Milan – carbonara and a salad – but much better) – life is short, they say, so eat dessert first! It’s now about 9:00 pm (21:00) local time, and I’ll be in bed soon. Tomorrow should be a packed day of San Marco, other churches and museums – and who knows what! Weather in Venice was uncomfortably humid this afternoon, and comfortably cool this evening.

Although this is the way the sky looked at one point this afternoon, I didn't take this picture. It's a painting by Canaletto around 1730. It was a lot cleaner back then! (They are beginning a cleaning/restoration process. Your grandkids -- if you have small children now -- might see it.)

Good Shepherds in Milan Cathedral

Two of the Archbishops of Milan in the 20th century have been beatified, possibly on the road to canonization. Interestingly, each led the Milan Church during 0ne of the two World Wars: Cardinal Andrea Carlo Ferrari, WWI, and Cardinal Alfredo Ildefonso Schuster, WWII.

The newest and one of the most beautiful stained glass window in the Cathedral is dedicated to the two of them. There are two very striking images of Christ the Good Shepherd in the window, which was designed in 1988 by Giovanni Hajnal.

These images speak eloquently of the relationship of these two great churchmen to their people during time of great suffering and danger for their people.

Greetings from Milan

I arrived safely yesterday, and after good night's sleep, went off to explore the city today. Spent the morning at the Cathedral (Duomo). Cleaning of the facade and most of the exterior has just been completed, and it's splendid and bright. This is certainly one of the finest and most elaborate of all Gothic Cathedrals, and the lace-like delicate tracery and detail is just unending. Both the statuary and the stained glass windows are rich and varied, including a modern (1988) one of Blessed Cardinal Schuster, with an unusual depiction of the Good Shepherd. I was disappointed that the ancient baptistery is closed for further excavation and restoration.

After lunch of a great caprese salad and mediocre carbonara, I visited the Basilica of St. Ambrose, built by him the 4th century, which houses his tomb along with Sts. Gervase and Protase, and then to the Basilica of St. Lawrence Martyr, which part of which was also built in the 4th century and houses several splendid mosaics and frescoes of the same era.

Time to call it an evening. Tomorrow I'm taking the train to Venice.

Early Christian World in Italy: Itinerary

Over the past few years, getting acquainted with the Early Christian World sites in Turkey, it has become obvious to me that many sites in Italy relate directly to the sites we explore in Turkey--sites ranging form apostolic times to the Byzantine Empire and the interplay of the East and the West. Folr a long time I've wanted to explore those sites. Now, thanks to a wonderful gift from the ECW Pilgrims of the 2006-2008, I have the opportunity to do just that. Here's my itinerary for my trip to Italy this coming week. (Today--Saturday evening, October 3, I'm putting up the bare bones. I'll add flesh -- descriptions and more links -- as time goes on; subsequent entries will link to this basic itinerary.)

On Wednesday, October 7, I arrive in Milan at 8:50 am.

I will stay two nights at the Arco Romana Hotel, which is a 7 minute subway ride from the central station, and an even shorter subway ride from the historic center, with most of the sites I want to visit.

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Here's the weather in Milan. Looks like I'll be heading into rain! Warm too: 75-80 degrees F. every day for the next week.

On Friday, October 9, I'll take the train to Venice, where I'll stay in the Hotel Firenze, where I'll stay three nights (two full days). The hotel is just off St. Mark's Square, and a 5-euro boat ride from the train station.

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The hotel looks like it will be a great spot to relax, but I hope to get out and explore too. There are lots of places that arouse my interest.

Here's the weather in Venice.

(Only in Italy would one stay at the "Roman" hotel in Milan and the "Florence" hotel in Venice!)

Monday, October 12, will find me boarding the train to Ravenna, where I'll stay in the Hotel Argentario. , which is also close to the railroad station and many of the historic sites. Because of its pre-8th-century (i.e., before iconoclasm) mosaics and other ancient Byzantine monuments, this is the place I really want to immerse myself in. I'll be here three nights--two full days.

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Here's the weather in Ravenna.

Then, on to Rome, Thursday, October 15, where I'll stay at the Yes Hotel (yes, you got that right), which seems like a real "sweetheart" of a small hotel, just one block from the Stazione Termini (train station), which means a short distance by public transportation from just about everywhere.

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I'll be five nights (four full days) in Rome, and am not sure just where I'll go or what I'll see, but I am booked for a full day at the Vatican Museum (another link) and Scavi (excavations) on Monday. (i have no plans to see the pope -- I won't be there for the usual Wednesday audience. Maybe I'll run into him at a local trattoria or, perhaps, hofbrau.

Here's the weather in Rome.

On Tuesday, October 20, I'm returning to LAX, arriving, God willing, around 7:00 pm.

Greetings from Good Shepherd

After four months of inactivity, I'm back to blogging again. Tomorrow will mark the completion of three months as the new pastor of the Church of the Good Shepherd in Beverly Hills. The welcome I've received has been genuine and wonderful, and I'm beginning to feel very much at home. A total move to a new location and a new ministry at age 67 is bound to be hard, and there have been ... uhm ... moments. But, on the whole I'm settling in, and enjoying both the perks and the fresh opportunities for ministry in this new spot.

Preparations are in order for the 2010 Early Christian World Pilgrimage to Turkey next April. I've set up a dedicated website for it. I hope to update it often, so you might want to bookmark it. Its address is easy to remember: http://ecwpilgrimage.org. We just finalized the itinerary and pricing a few weeks ago ($2,950 for 22 days). I recommend anyone interested to contact me ASAP. We need a minimum of 20 participants and there's a maximum of 40. I already have commitments from 9 people, and strong "probables" from 3 more.

After three months, I am finally taking a vacation. Beginning next week, I'll be in Italy for two weeks. Although I spent two years in Rome studying liturgy in the 1970s, I haven't been back except for a very brief visit with the OLA choir in the spring of 2001. The Early Christian World Pilgrimage to Turkey has really whetted my appetite to revisit some spots with new eyes, specifically the early Christian and Byzantine sites. So I'll be concentrating on Milan, Venice, Ravenna, and Rome.

I plan to post a lot of descriptions, reflections, and pictures on this blog, so you all can come with me virtually (and in spirit). Later this evening, I plan to post a day-by-day itinerary.

But for now, if you are interested, here are some video highlights of my installation as pastor here at Good Shepherd, with Bishop Ed Clark presiding, on Saturday evening, September 12.